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Axle swap, Should I or should I not?

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  • Axle swap, Should I or should I not?

    I have a 2015 JK with a Dana 30 front end. I am running 35 inch tires. I wheel very hard trails without a heavy foot. No lockers yet in this one but planning on it. I have wheeled many 30s with no issues when doing a super 30 kit with hardened shafts (inner and outer). I like the smaller ring gear for clearance, every little bit helps. and that it is lighter in weight. The Cs are the same on a 30 and 44. Is it worth it to put a 44 front in and build, truss that one? Or should I just build the 30 as I first planned? looking for pros and cons As I know my TJs very very well but still learning the details of the limits of the JK.
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  • #2
    Good question Kevin. I know you are easy on the pedal while wheeling and that sure helps. The JK's are heavier than their TJ siblings and as such more stress is put on the drive train components. If you have the money to swap a 44 in the front I personally would do it. You would probably get by just fine with the 30 for quite a while if you are going to stay with 35's but the larger ring gear of the 44 would hold up much better in those situations where you have bump your way thru.
    07 JKUR,Currie lift w/Antirocks,Ultimate Dana 60's front and rear,Teraflex master cylinder,40"Toyo's on Level 8 Strike 8 wheels with Monster valves,Premier Power Welder,Pure Jeep rock rails,Expedition One rear bumper,customized Body Armor front bumper,Adam's 1350 driveshafts,M.O.R.E. engine/trans skid,20lb Co2,custom steel trunk enclosure,Warn X8000i,TrekArmor seat covers,Alien 20" LED bar and much...much more!

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    • #3
      I can understand that but the weak point is the C and they are the same on the 30 and 44. since working for jeep I have an in on stuff so pretty easy to make the swap.
      [COLOR=#ffff00]sigpic[/COLOR]

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      • #4
        The weak points on the housings are the C's and the tubes, both will bend. Either way you would need to gusset the C's and support the tubes with inner or outer sleeves, a truss or a combination. Strength wise your really not looking at a difference between the 2 housings, but the 44 guts will hold up much better than the 30's.

        Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

        07 JKUR,Currie lift w/Antirocks,Ultimate Dana 60's front and rear,Teraflex master cylinder,40"Toyo's on Level 8 Strike 8 wheels with Monster valves,Premier Power Welder,Pure Jeep rock rails,Expedition One rear bumper,customized Body Armor front bumper,Adam's 1350 driveshafts,M.O.R.E. engine/trans skid,20lb Co2,custom steel trunk enclosure,Warn X8000i,TrekArmor seat covers,Alien 20" LED bar and much...much more!

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        • #5
          So I should just build a 44 with the gussets and truss? Should I sleeve it also with hardened shafts? I want solid shafts in it and will not use G2 axles. what are the best in todays world?
          [COLOR=#ffff00]sigpic[/COLOR]

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          • #6
            RCV shafts are the best and they are guaranteed not to break even under load at full turn with up to 40" tires. If they do manage to break they will replace it free. I would do the combo of C-gussets, sleeves and an Artec truss. That's my setup and I'm running 40's on a 4 door. You should be bomb proof with that setup on a 2 door with 35's. I did the Poly Performance sleeves and gussets. I have an Artec truss that I haven't put on yet and I'm still saving up for the RCV's.

            Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

            07 JKUR,Currie lift w/Antirocks,Ultimate Dana 60's front and rear,Teraflex master cylinder,40"Toyo's on Level 8 Strike 8 wheels with Monster valves,Premier Power Welder,Pure Jeep rock rails,Expedition One rear bumper,customized Body Armor front bumper,Adam's 1350 driveshafts,M.O.R.E. engine/trans skid,20lb Co2,custom steel trunk enclosure,Warn X8000i,TrekArmor seat covers,Alien 20" LED bar and much...much more!

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            • #7
              Also Synergy or Teraflex ball joints work great for the abuse we put these axles thru.

              Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

              07 JKUR,Currie lift w/Antirocks,Ultimate Dana 60's front and rear,Teraflex master cylinder,40"Toyo's on Level 8 Strike 8 wheels with Monster valves,Premier Power Welder,Pure Jeep rock rails,Expedition One rear bumper,customized Body Armor front bumper,Adam's 1350 driveshafts,M.O.R.E. engine/trans skid,20lb Co2,custom steel trunk enclosure,Warn X8000i,TrekArmor seat covers,Alien 20" LED bar and much...much more!

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              • #8
                I used to run 30 spline shafts and 33 spline in the rear. RCVs are only 27 as the stock shafts. If they break they will replace them. I don't want them to break ever. lol
                [COLOR=#ffff00]sigpic[/COLOR]

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                • #9
                  They are the best out there. The others are weak when under load when the wheels are turned. RCV's are just as strong whether turned or straight. There not many people that can say they broke RCV shafts. The way you and I wheel, I don't see them ever breaking.

                  Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

                  07 JKUR,Currie lift w/Antirocks,Ultimate Dana 60's front and rear,Teraflex master cylinder,40"Toyo's on Level 8 Strike 8 wheels with Monster valves,Premier Power Welder,Pure Jeep rock rails,Expedition One rear bumper,customized Body Armor front bumper,Adam's 1350 driveshafts,M.O.R.E. engine/trans skid,20lb Co2,custom steel trunk enclosure,Warn X8000i,TrekArmor seat covers,Alien 20" LED bar and much...much more!

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                  • #10
                    The Dana 30 RCVs are only warrantied to 37" tires. Dana 44 RCVs are warrantied to 40" tires. If you are looking for clearance and strength, check out the ProRock 44. Same or more clearance as the factory 30 with quite a bit more strength. I am currently running the factory 30 on my 2013 JKU. 5.13 gears. 37" KM2s. The axle has been sleeved and the Cs gussetted. I'm not out there trying to break it, but I don't baby it either. I've been on this setup now for over 2 years.

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