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  • CJ7 Ignition problem...

    Okay, ForbiddenJeeper's, I need your help! I have a 77 CJ7 with an AMC 304 that has recent decided that it didn't want to do anything when I turn the key. I have checked the battery, replaced the starter solenoid and the ignition switch (not lock cylinder), but nothing helps. I can touch two screwdrivers together and jump the starter solenoid and the bad boy fires right up, so the starter is fine. It's just that when I turn the key, the gauges move, but the engine doesn't even try to turn over. Any thoughts? Any help will be appreciated!

  • #2
    Re: CJ7 Ignition problem...

    Just a quick point of clarification... When I say I've replaced the ignition switch, I literally mean that I have replaced the switch. This is not to be confused with the part the key fits into. Thanks for looking and hopefully we can figure this out!

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    • #3
      Re: CJ7 Ignition problem...

      Sounds like it is either a short in the switch wire going from the ignition switch to the starter solonoid or possably a bad ground to the ignition switch.
      07 JKUR,Currie lift w/Antirocks,Ultimate Dana 60's front and rear,Teraflex master cylinder,40"Toyo's on Level 8 Strike 8 wheels with Monster valves,Premier Power Welder,Pure Jeep rock rails,Expedition One rear bumper,customized Body Armor front bumper,Adam's 1350 driveshafts,M.O.R.E. engine/trans skid,20lb Co2,custom steel trunk enclosure,Warn X8000i,TrekArmor seat covers,Alien 20" LED bar and much...much more!

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      • #4
        Re: CJ7 Ignition problem...

        Originally posted by Glen View Post
        Sounds like it is either a short in the switch wire going from the ignition switch to the starter solonoid or possably a bad ground to the ignition switch.
        How would I check the ground coming into the switch?

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        • #5
          Re: CJ7 Ignition problem...

          Unfortunately it has been too long since I have had a CJ. All I can say is trace the wires. If all else fails you could run new wires from the starter to the ignition switch. Sorry, I wish remembered more so I could visualize it better.

          Sent from my BlackBerry 9850 using Tapatalk
          07 JKUR,Currie lift w/Antirocks,Ultimate Dana 60's front and rear,Teraflex master cylinder,40"Toyo's on Level 8 Strike 8 wheels with Monster valves,Premier Power Welder,Pure Jeep rock rails,Expedition One rear bumper,customized Body Armor front bumper,Adam's 1350 driveshafts,M.O.R.E. engine/trans skid,20lb Co2,custom steel trunk enclosure,Warn X8000i,TrekArmor seat covers,Alien 20" LED bar and much...much more!

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          • #6
            Re: CJ7 Ignition problem...

            Try sending Zmotorsports a PM. He would be able to give you some good advise.

            Sent from my BlackBerry 9850 using Tapatalk
            07 JKUR,Currie lift w/Antirocks,Ultimate Dana 60's front and rear,Teraflex master cylinder,40"Toyo's on Level 8 Strike 8 wheels with Monster valves,Premier Power Welder,Pure Jeep rock rails,Expedition One rear bumper,customized Body Armor front bumper,Adam's 1350 driveshafts,M.O.R.E. engine/trans skid,20lb Co2,custom steel trunk enclosure,Warn X8000i,TrekArmor seat covers,Alien 20" LED bar and much...much more!

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            • #7
              Re: CJ7 Ignition problem...

              Do you know your way around a DVOM? If so here is a starting point, check for voltage at the solenoid when you turn the key to the start position. Put your red lead on the wire going to the "S" terminal on the solenoid and the black lead to a good ground, for this test the case of the starter motor or even the engine block would be a good starting point. You are looking for battery voltage when you turn the key to the start position. If you don't get it try moving your black lead to the battery negative as this is your negative (ground) source. If you all of a sudden get your voltage reading then you have a bad ground either from the battery to the frame or from the frame to the engine. Some starter solenoids ground through there cases and some require a small ground wire to the coil on the solenoid. I have seen people replace a solenoid with the wrong style and have similar issues because the solenoid is not grounded internally. I know you said you can jump the solenoid but I still like to perform these preliminary tests anyway to check for voltage drops and to check the control wiring as well as the load wiring.

              If you are getting your voltage reading yet still no cranking then you either have a faulty solenoid or a bad ground at the solenoid and not completing the circuit to the coil in the solenoid. I know you said you replaced the soleniod but I have seen it happen with new parts, by checking it with a VOM (volt ohm meter) you are not guessing you are verifying your voltage.

              If you are not getting voltage at all at the solenoid when turning to the crank position, move your red lead closer and closer to the ignition until you find where you are losing the voltage. I hate to start telling people to rip out wiring and replace all of your wiring because I have seen more issues creep up after such and undertaking rather than locating the problem with all of the original wiring in place where you can follow a wiring schematic and systematically test components and electrical connections. Don't forget to check the obvious places also like the fuse feeding the ignition switch and the power going into the ignition switch, I have seen bad connections where you can get enough current to operate dash lights/gauges but when you turn the ignition to the next location for start there is a bad connection and the current cannot pass through it. Thus this is why I check for voltage drops under load.

              Sorry for the long drawn out explanation but I hope that helps and gives you a starting point.

              Mike.
              2011 JKU Rubicon
              BDS Long-Arm Suspension System/ 17x9 ATX Crawl wheels/35" BFG KM2's/ Warn Powerplant/Plus much much more.

              http://My 2011 JKU Rubicon Build Thread

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              • #8
                Re: CJ7 Ignition problem...

                ZM, that was my first thought... wires switched on the starting solenoid (S and G).


                [COLOR=#ffffff]1982 CJ-7 AMC 304 V8, T-18 transmission, clocked Dana 300 transfer case, flat belly pan, SOA suspension, Spool rear, Spartan Locker front, 4.10 gears, Warn 8274 for recovering stuck JKs (and LJs).
                sigpic
                [/COLOR]

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                • #9
                  Re: CJ7 Ignition problem...

                  Thanks for the information so far! Regarding the picture above, this jeep only has a green wire coming off the S and nothing on the I.

                  ZM- Thanks for the other information! I will go test now and report back.

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                  • #10
                    Re: CJ7 Ignition problem...

                    UPDATE: I decided to go a slightly easier and faster route. Since the key would allow me to start the jeep by jumping the solenoid and keep running, I decided to bypass the keyed start and put in a push-button. Worked like a charm Fires up and runs until I turn the key to the off position.

                    Thanks for the help in helping me try to diagnose the problem. Ultimately, this route provided the easiest way for me to get back out on the trails.

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